There aren’t that many places in the world that have experienced conflict within my life time that are now deemed relatively safe to travel to, on the scale of which Sarajevo experienced. The scars of which can still be seen today.

Getting there

Chances are you will arrive into Sarajevo by the Sarajevo International Airport, a small but functional airport with limited trimmings and a mildly benevolent staff at the Information kiosk. There are only 2 options to get into from the airport into the city.

Taxi – Prices will vary depending on the cost of fuel at the time of your visit but it will be a flat rate of roughly £20 regardless of your final destination within the city.
Bus – Depending on the time you make it out of security, this may not be a viable option as there can be 30, 45 or 1 hour 45-minute wait between buses. A ticket to the centre is 5KM

You may also arrive by train. The Sarajevo Central Railway Station, like its air counterpart, is just as basic and just as big which feels a little excessive considering there are only a few trains a day. If there was more footfall it could be lucky enough to get the facelift it really needs. The only way to get into the centre of the city other than walking which will take around 25 minutes is by taxi. Unlike other train stations I have visited with limited timetables, taxi drivers in the city didn’t seem that interested in waiting outside the station for any arrivals in need of a lift.

Getting Around

This is very easy. All major attractions are within easy walking distance of each other in the old town and you could tick most off in a day.

Taxis – Are everywhere and relatively cheap. Make sure you ask them to put the meter on rather than just making up a figure from thin air. They may charge for additional baggage in the boot.
Buses and Trams – There is a frequent service around the city and tickets can be bought from the kiosk at the stop or from the driver for 1.40KM or €0.70. for two rides it costs 3.00 KM which makes it cheaper to buy 2 singles, 7.10KM for five rides which is a similar story and 0.50KM for children tickets.
UBER/Lyft – Do not exist in Sarajevo.

Money

The local currency in Bosnia and Herzegovina is the Bosnian Convertible Mark, indicated on price tags as KM or BAM. This is a currency that you will likely need to order in to most bureau de changes. At the time of writing the exchange rate was £1 to 2.31BAM/KM
ATMs are frequent enough but will charge for the use of them.
Contactless transactions are widely accepted.
Tipping if you have experienced a good meal or service is expected but not compulsory.

Attractions

Baščaršija/Sebilj – The historic market centre and water fountain which is still the main place to go for shopping and a strong coffee. Legend has it, once you drink from the fountain, you will be destined to return to the city.

Gazi Husrev-bey’s Museum/Mosque – In Islamic belief, you still get brownie points after death if others are still able to benefit from what you achieved in life. Gazi Husrev-bey provided the city with a place of worship, knowledge housing and free water.

Latin Bridge (Zelenih beretki Street) – The site where the crown prince of the Austro-Hungarian empire, Archduke Franz Ferdinand was assassinated which was the catalyst for the 1st World War.

Kazandziluk (Coppersmith Street) – A UNESCO World Heritage Site where you can watch coppersmiths make and sell plates, bookmarks, and other souvenirs.

Museum of Crimes Against Humanity and Genocide – A raw and unfiltered record and collection of the events of the civil war in the 90s.

Other Points of Interest

House of Spite – A house the government was forced to moved brick by brick to the other side of the river because the owner didn’t want to move when giving the city a makeover and a new city hall.
The abandoned bobsleigh track from the 1984 Sarajevo Olympic Games. Excellent for a quiet walk around or to take some edgy Instagram shots. 20 BAM/KM for a return ticket up and down.
Yellow Fort - The best free views of the city for sunset with a café.

Where to Eat

Bosanska Kuca Steak House – Proudly advertising they are the only restaurant in the old town you can get a beer.
Dveri – A very popular restaurant tucked away behind a sliding door with traditional Ottoman and Austro-Hungarian dishes on offer. Spaces are limited so you will need to make a reservation a day ahead as a minimum.
Nune – Recommended by a tour guide . A small place down a side street in the Austrian quarter offering Ottoman classics.

Where to Drink

Lacava Wine Bar – Dark and atmospheric. Great place for a game of eye spy while sat on bar stools around converted barrels.
Celtic Bar - if you want a less cultural experience
Caffe Selfie – Can watch a Hollywood film from the noughties with subtitles on while puffing on a hookah pipe.
Divan – Within one of the complexes built by Gazi Husrev-bey, next to the Morica Han on the main pedestrian walkway. There is nowhere else you could possibly but in Sarajevo when sat there. Get a coffee and some Turkish delight.

Hotels

Hotel Aziza 4 Star – A five-minute walk from Sibilj and the Yellow Fort. It is up a relatively step hill but there is a bakery and corner shop to get some bits for the day or the evening.
Hotel Europe 5 Star – Just off the main pedestrian thoroughfare of the old town and on the street with the usual assortment of bar crawl spots.
Hotel Franz Ferdinand 2 Star – Named after the man who made the city famous, on one of the pedestrian side streets off the main walking route through the old Ottoman and Austro-Hungarian quarters.

Other Bits

Meet Bosnia Walking Tour. Its 2 hours around the old Ottoman quarter taking in the main attractions and its free! Other tours are available in the surrounding area.
Train or bus to Mostar. There is only one morning train to get there and one evening train to get back. The buses run more regularly and both take roughly the same amount of time to get there through stunning mountain roads and tracks. Sit on the left side of the train on the way there for the best views during the 2nd half of the trip.
The coffee is brutally strong and the stuff left at the bottom is like tar.
Cevapcici is as close to a national dish as you can get. Or at least a dish of the city. Comprising of grilled minced beef in the shape of sausages, oiled flatbread, grilled onions and usually with sour cream. It will take a few years of your life expectancy but it will be worth it.